Most visitors use Tahiti as a door to the other islands. Stay a little, and you find the real center of Polynesian life. The biggest island, the highest mountains, the capital, the markets, and the most famous wave in surfing: give Tahiti days, not hours.

Where is it?

Tahiti is the main island of French Polynesia, in the Windward Islands. It is really two round islands joined by a narrow strip of land at Taravao: Tahiti Nui, the big part, with Papeete in the northwest - and Tahiti Iti, the wild peninsula. At its end sits Teahupo'o, where the road stops and the famous wave begins.

How do you get there?

You arrive here: all international flights land at Faa'a, and every island flight and Moorea ferry starts here. The real question is how to get around. Rent a car for the island, and take the ferry for Moorea. Plan extra time on the coast road - it is the only road, and everyone shares it.

When should you go?

May to October is the drier, cooler season. November to April is warm, wet and green. Humpback whales pass from about July to November. The big waves at Teahupo'o also come mostly in the dry months - so surf season and dry season are almost the same.

What to do

• Start at the Papeete market. Two floors of fruit, fish, monoï (the scented coconut oil), flowers and weaving - the island's living room. The market is at its best early in the morning, and earliest of all on Sunday.
• Drive into the valleys. The Papenoo valley cuts through the green heart of the island, past waterfalls and old trails - a 4x4 day trip into a Tahiti most visitors never see. The Faarumai waterfalls, near the north coast, are an easier short walk into the same green world.
• Go to the end of the road. Teahupo'o, at the tip of the peninsula, is a village first and a legend second. From a taxi boat you can watch the surfers on the wave. From the shore, you can feel why they respect it.
• Swim the west coast. Black-sand beaches, sunsets over Moorea, and easy snorkelling along the Punaauia coast. Tahiti's lagoon is simpler to enjoy than people think.
• Eat at the roulottes. In the evening, the food trucks set up and the whole island lines up together: grilled fish, chow mein, crêpes. It is the cheapest good dinner in French Polynesia, and the most local one.

Where to stay

Papeete keeps you close to the market, the ferries and the little nightlife there is. The west coast - Punaauia, Paea - has the beaches, the sunsets and most of the hotels. The peninsula is for surf and quiet. There are family guesthouses all around the island, and they are easy to reach.

Is Tahiti for you?

Tahiti is for travellers who want to see Polynesia at work: a real city, real traffic at rush hour, and under it all, the deepest culture, food and history in the islands. It is not the postcard lagoon - Moorea and the atolls do that better. Give Tahiti two or three days at the start or end of your trip. It may quietly become one of the reasons you come back.

Practical tips

• Rent a car - the island is bigger than it looks, and buses are rare.
• Go to the market early - by mid-morning the best fish and flowers are gone.
• Rain showers pass quickly on the north and east coasts - wait a little before you cancel a plan.
• Much of the interior is protected land - visit the valleys with a local guide.
• Bring a light jacket for the mountains - the interior is much cooler.